"The moon... replenishes the earth; when she approaches it, she fills all bodies while, when she recedes, she empties them" - Pliny the Elder
The Autumn Equinox is a turning point. From that moment of equality until the Winter Solstice, the nights become longer and the days become shorter. Time to embrace the moon, as the winemakers do.
George Mason's The Harvest Moon, in Tate Britain
"A good winemaker is a good winemaker", says Trevor. Twenty-plus years ago many of our winemakers would not give themselves the biodynamic label, or call themselves 'natural' either, though they have become that in modern parlance.
Some call it a hippy back-to-the-earth zeitgeist, some claim that it permits the only true expression of terroir. Whichever you believe, these winemakers merely acted on simple truths understood by all good farmers: that looking after the soil is the best start to the evolution of the wine, and that keeping an eye on the lunar calendar is essential. Whether keeping an eye on the astrological calendar is essential too, well, some beg to differ... (but it may interest you to know that the big wine buyers at Tesco and others plan their tastings in accordance to it!)
Let's celebrate those growers and winemakers of ours who tick the biodynamic boxes (although we rarely tell you they do) and, notes Trevor, "still produce good wines". Those of you who have been on the receiving end of Trevor's views on 'natural' wines will understand the emphasis. They are good people and yes - good winemakers. We are delighted that their little patch of mother earth is in their hands.
For tickets email: RSVP@stjohnrestaurant.com
£125 pp, inclusive of all courses, wine and service
Wednesday, 27th September
St. JOHN Maltby
41 Maltby Street
P.S. for those of you who adhere to that biodynamic calendar, you will be delighted to hear that September 27th is a 'fruit day'!